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Proper Magazine 16

Proper 16

Proper Magazine is the most enjoyable menswear magazine on the market. It’s honest, it’s witty and – maybe because it lacks the Daddy’s money type investor that many of its counterparts have – it has genuine substance. Having just finished reading their latest issue, I can safely say that it is their most varied and comprehensive yet. Featuring an insightful look into Liverpool’s Jonhead subculture and a nostalgia-fuelled editorial from 90’s wares specialists, Too Hot, this magazine will chime with anyone who got into nice clothes because of shit football and decent music, instead of a tumblr dashboard. The lead story of the issue is the most in-depth look at the recent adidas Spezial collection that I have seen.

Issue 16 of Proper is available here:

http://shop.propermag.com/product/proper-magazine-issue-16

Q&A Jonny Owen Actor

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Next up we have Merthyr born actor, writer, presenter and now Mountain Ash postman turned cult movie star Jonny Owen. Jon has become one of the most popular actors in Wales and has starred in TV and movies such as Shameless, My Family, a bit of Tom Jones and even Match of the Day! However, his biggest achievement to date looks to be the rapidly becoming cult status of his brainchild Svengali, the story of a loveable, musically obsessed postman from the Mount! Here’s what he had to say..

What did you have for breakfast?

I had brown toast with honey and a cup of tea. It’s what I have every morning.

What’s good about your home town?

The people. Funny, irreverent, wicked, gorgeously nosey and generous.

Provide us with a synopsis for your autobiography in 140 characters and what would it be called?

Welshman with a wanderlust life and tries just about everything in the arts world except fashion and painting. Although I may start a label one day and invest in some brushes, a canvas and an easel. That’s everything covered then.

It would be called Oi Taff!

If you could punch one celebrity in the face with absolutely no repercussions who would it be?

Without a moment’s hesitation, it would be George Osbourne.

Tell us something not many people know about you?

I used to box as a kid and still train a few times a week on the pads and bags.

You’ve got £300 to spend on one new item of menswear. Tell us what you’re gonna be buying?

Decent Trainers, nice pair of jeans, smart polo shirt and with the change I’d have a few pints and maybe a curry on the way home.

Favourite 3 labels over the last 20 years?

Fred Perry – The daddy of them all.

Lacoste – The mammy.

Weekend Offender – The errant but lovable son of them both.

If a film was being made of your life, tell us 4 songs that would definitely be included on the soundtrack and 1 for the closing credits?

1) My Generation – The Who

2) God Save the Queen – The Sex Pistols

3) Waterfall – The Stone Roses

4) (Credits) In my life – The Beatles

 

www.svengalimovie.com

Q&A Chris Sullivan Author, Journalist, DJ

 

CS1

Chris Sullivan fled to London in the late 70s from the lovely town that is Merthyr Tydfil. After being immersed in the punk and New Romantic scenes, he ended up running the legendary WAG Club in London’s China Town. Indeed, look in the index of most celebrity biographies of the 80s (from Martin Kemp’s to Vivienne Westwood’s) and you’ll see his name in there somewhere. Still living in The Big Smoke, these days he’s an author, journalist, DJ, screenwriter and many other things (including a husband to Leah and father to Finbar). And he still finds the time to be one of London’s sharpest (not to mention funniest and most affable) chaps.

What did you have for breakfast?

A poppy seed bagel with smoked salmon, cherry tomatoes, cream cheese filling, and a macchiato

What’s good about your home town?

My mother lives there.

Provide us with the synopsis for your autobiography in 140 characters and what would it be called?

‘I Should Have Said No’ – The unexpurgated autobiography of a chap who ignored common sense.

If you could punch any celebrity in the face with absolutely no repercussions who would it be?

All of them. So many to belt and so little time. I loathe both rich and famous people and I know loads of the bastards. I’d give any royal sponger a right good hiding. I think any one of them who does that tweet shit should be headbutted.

You’ve got £300 to spend on one new item of menswear right now. Tell us what you’re gonna be buying?

Levis’ vintage unwashed 1955 rigid 501 XX selvage jeans – only the 1955 as the 67 is too narrow and the 47 too wide. I saw a pair of stretch denims yesterday that I fancy as well. Tidy!

Favourite 3 labels over the last 20 years?

I don’t do labels apart from Levis ( and only the 55 selvage jeans and type I or 2 jean jacket as I wouldn’t go near anything else), Carhartt (plain pocket Tee-shirts) BHS boxer shorts and Aero leather jackets, all of which are utility clothing. I think any man past the age of 30 who considers wearing fashion labels should be ashamed of himself. Men’s fashion is undignified. Men’s style is not.

If a film was made of your life , tell us 4 songs that would definitely be included on the soundtrack including 1 for the closing credits?

Child – What a wonderful world by Louis Armstrong

Youth – Candy Man by Anthony Newley

Adolescence – I feel Good by James Brown/Rebel Rebel – Bowie

Twenties – Walk on The Wild Side by Lou Reed or Jimmy Smith

Older as father – Old Man by Neil Young

Now – Yo Vivre by Celia Cruz

Funeral – On the Nickel by Tom Waits and Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking for – the Chimes

 

 

Q&A Stuart Graham A Number of Names

Stu 2

Meet Big Stu, Carlisle Stu, Tall Stu, you get the picture, he’s a big guy, actually the tallest guy in fashion. I met Stu when he was at Duffer and then years later at Lyle & Scott, he was also a regular visitor to the Drooghi parties we hosted in Cardiff. He now works for A Number of Names as well as just recently starting a consultancy company with his fiancé. And yes, I am going to the stag do in Vegas, got to have a look haven’t you…

What did you have for breakfast?

This breakfast is an exception to the usual grease on a Sunday as my better half has been persuading me to not eat red meat for a week…. Today its carrot and orange juice, granola with fresh fruit, finished off with scrambled eggs and beans on toast.

What’s good about your home town?

I now live in South East London but I’m originally born and schooled in Carlisle.

Carlisle is the Capital of Cumbria, ex Capital of Scotland and The Great Border City. It has a Cathedral, a Castle, loads of countryside, Cumberland Sausage, tracksuits, bad dentistry and my beloved Carlisle United.

Carlisle was recently voted the happiest place to live in the UK.

Oh, also not renowned for its diverse multiculturalism, it transpires that the first black police officer in the UK walked the beat there in 1837.

Provide us with the synopsis for your autobiography in under 140 characters and what would it be called?

Writing my autobiography? I doubt it; I’d have to hire a Ghost writer. Ok…The title would be “What do you mean I’m not working class?”

One young mans journey from a Carlisle Council Estate to the glamour of London. Not happy with the allure of The Royal Mail, British Gas, BT, YTS Schemes, or factory work, follow him on a discovery of his true passions.

This is a story of laughter, sadness, heartbreak, love, lust, pleasure, folly, tears, wine, women, song, drugs, friendship, voyages, disappointment, tragedy and joy.

You only get out, what you put in.

If you could punch any celebrity in the face with absolutely no repercussions who would it be?

It’s not my style really.

Tell us something not many people know about you?

Before I moved to London I had a spell as a white water raft guide. I also played a charity football event with Neville Southall.

You’ve got £300 to spend on one new item of menswear right now. Tell us what you’re gonna be buying?

I’m in the market for a good pair of sunglasses. Native Sons.

Also there is a beautiful C.E jacket in the market this season

Favourite 3 labels over the last 20 years?

Ralph Lauren (RRL// Blue Label// Rugby)

Engineered Garments

Def Jam and Factory Records.

If a film was made of your life, tell us 4 songs that would definitely be included on the soundtrack including 1 for the closing credits?

I seriously considered Gimme Shelter by The Rolling Stones but it’s a popular choice.

Holy Are You – The Electric Prunes

Seven Days is Too Long – Chuck Wood

Come Together (single version) – Primal Scream

I Wonder If I Care as Much – The Everly Brothers (Closing Credits)

www.clothtoclothe.com   www.anumberofnames.org

 

Q&A Neal Heard Author of ‘Trainers’

Yeti

 

Meet Yeti, Newport’s number one guy and one of the original designers from the late 90s. He’s best known for being the author of ‘Trainers’, the first book on Trainer culture.  He also started the excellent label White Riot, one of the best tee-shirt labels of the last 15 years. His latest incarnation is with a soon to be launched knitwear brand, LORDS.  I swear, he’ll do anything not to get a normal job. This is what Mr Heard had to say.

What did you have for breakfast?

I use my hunger at breakfast as a chance to eat all the good stuff, so Bran Flakes, a Banana and an Apple is the not very rock and roll answer!

What’s good about your hometown?

I am sad to say, not too much nowadays. But it was Orson Welles who referred to the fact that out of bedlam, comes invention and creation. So the fact Newport often deserves its moniker, Zooport, is the reason that so many ‘free thinkers’ and creatives are spat out by the place.

You have to dream and have a sense of humour to survive the experience.

Oh and of course, the mighty Newport County and the truly marvelous Transporter Bridge.

Provide us with a synopsis for your autobiography in 140 characters and what would you call it?

Titled: “Don’t just do something, stand there!”

I am a serial quitter, sometimes, it’s good to take defeat on the chin, chill & enjoy lifes simple pleasures.

If you could punch one celebrity in the face with absolutely no repercussions, who would it be?

Jeez, where to start? I would just as happily punch all the ‘normal non celebrities’, obsessed with sharing the minutae of their lives, be it with selfies or the inordinately boring forms of social media of whatever guise…..but I am a lover, not a fighter, so, no one!

Tell us something that not many people know about you?

At the moment, I really cannot stand ‘Trainer Culture’ ! Talk about being done to death.

You’ve got £300 to spend on one new item of menswear, tell us what you’re gonna be buying?

That would easily last me a year. Primark for the Basics. But I would try and factor in a couple of Cashmere Jumpers.

But I could easily spend all of it on the 1981/82 Milan shirt with ‘Pooh Jeans’ sponsorship, as worn by Joe Jordan which is my current obsession.

Favourite 3 labels over the last 20 years?

To be honest, I am more into Vintage and Charity shops. Cheaper, better and why pay for copies?! But if I had to pick one, YMC.

If a film was made of your life, tell us four songs that would definitely be included on the soundtrack including one for the closing credits?

The closing credits would definitely be ‘Everyday is like Sunday’ by my only hero , Mozza. And just about sums up my mood with life!

I would have to have, The Cutter by the Bunnymen. Always makes me feel like I want to start a revolution.

Always let your Conscience be your guide, by Jiminy Cricket from the film Pinnochio. We should all listen to this.

‘The Bare necessities’ by Baloo the bear off Jungle Book, is a great maxim for life.

www.wearelords.com Laboratory of Research & Design School (LORDS) coming soon….

trainers

Trainers by Neal Heard

What We Wore

I don’t really care if it has already been circulated around other blogs already – nothing on the internet is sacred. What’s more, this is a genuinely ace project and one that deserves all the attention it gets. While we’re currently being subjected to a slew of mawkish mid-90s nostalgia from a variety of streetwear brands and we’ve only just got over that 1920’s railroad worker look – it’s nice to see something with a bit of authenticity. And it’s easy to see why brands still riff on past styles and scense.  What We Wore is a candid look at British subcultures of the past 60 years from those that actually experienced it. Aside from the clothes, the user-submitted content shows the multi-faceted nature of youth culture on these shores.  What I like about it, is that each selection of photos is accompanied by text from the user that explains a bit about their scene at the time. Definitely something to spend a few hours browsing.  CG

http://what-we-wore.com/

 

what we wore

 

Q&A Marco Cairns Designer

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For me, Duffer of St George was the most important store in the UK for maybe 5-10 years during the late 80s and early 90s. They were by far the best shop influencing so many people and were also known for introducing countless brands to the UK, Marco Cairns, along with Eddie Prendergast and Barrie K Sharpe were the originators in my eyes. It was the first place I bought labels, be it Redwings, Shelltoes, SixEight, you name it, they seemed to have everything first. I think it was the only shop I’d get truly excited about visiting. Marco is now behind Duffer Japan which has just been released to some select stores in the UK. Here’s what he had to say.

What did you have for breakfast?

I don’t eat breakfast , just a quick coffee..

What’s good about your hometown?

The best thing about Barking, Essex is the fact they have a by-pass around it. So there is no need to go through it. I do have fond memories of when I grew up there though. It was a fairly decent place to live back then…

Provide us with a synopsis for your autobiography in 140 characters and what would you call it?

ALL OR NOTHING AT ALL..

Raised in a clapped out council house in East London with a hole in the roof and mice.

I was lucky enough to travel back to mother’s village in Southern Italy where my sense of style came from…

Had a fire in my belly. Got together with some mates and opened a store in Portobello road. Had a vision of what I wanted for the future so blindly went for it…

Messed around for 10 years. Started a family and got serious….Worked hard and made money. Travelled the world had a fantastic time. Spent the money.

Got into massive dept. Lost my house, my car, and went grey, which really pissed me off… Stopped everything. Sat down to think. I still had the same vision and a fire in my belly. Worked harder than before, raised some money. Found some backers and got stuck in..haven’t looked back..

If you could punch one celebrity in the face with absolutely no repercussions, who would it be?

I don’t really pay much attention to them there celebrity types. Sponge Bob square pants does my head in though…

Tell us something that not many people know about you?

I’ve got a scar on my inside thigh after being spiked on a railing as a kid.

You’ve got £300 to spend on menswear, tell us what you’re gonna be buying?

A pair of Alden Cordovan shoes. At a discount price of course..

Favourite 3 labels over the last 20 years?

Culture Shock – mid 80′s. Way ahead of their time. Great designs.. Nice people.

RRL. – Untouchable at the moment.. Perfect combination of styles.

Kapital .- Japan..In my opinion one of the best stores/ designers on the planet…

If a film was made of your life, tell us four songs that would be on the soundtrack?

Johnny Too bad……The Slickers

Get on down….. Eddie Harris

No Fun….. The Stooges

Played out with…..In the right place at the wrong time…Dr. John.

 

http://dufferjapan1.com/

 

 

Q&A Irvine Welsh

IV1

 

Look who we’ve got, only Irvine bleeding Welsh. The man behind the iconic Trainspotting, Filth, Porno and Marabou Stork Nightmares amongst other gems has kindly given us some of his valuable time. I actually met him once, down Ninian Park where it was rumoured a film on the Soul Crew by Tony Rivers and Dave Jones was in the pipeline. Maybe it’s Irvine’s next venture? Watch this space…..

What did you have for breakfast?

I had porridge made with almond nut milk, with salt, honey and blueberries.

What’s good about your hometown?

Edinburgh – Pubs, Hibs, characters, trams, cafés.

Provide us with a synopsis for your autobiography in 140 characters and what would you call it?

Was born, will die and is battling hard to make the best of the bits in the middle through spreading love and creating art.

If you could punch one celebrity in the face with absolutely no repercussions, who would it be?

I never get that wound up by celebs, even the obnoxious ones, I just turn over. Any member of the current cabinet I’d cheerfully boot up and down Leith Walk all day.

Tell us something that not many people know about you?

I’m tallish at 6 foot 2. For some reason a lot of people expect me to be a short arse.

You’ve got £300 to spend on menswear, tell us what you’re gonna be buying?

I go for shoes. At 300 quid you can get a good pair of shoes. A really decent jacket or coat would cost a bit more.

Favourite 3 labels over the last 20 years?

I know that people will laugh at this as it’s become the default label for radges, but I always liked Stone Island and the button on label.

I hate Nikes – they are just pish for sheep- give me Adidas any day of the week.

And I’m showing my age, but fuck it, Ben Sherman. Give me a black and white checked shirt and a load of lucky ladies.

If a film was made of your life, tell us four songs that would be on the soundtrack?

Hypo full of Love – A3

Comeback Girl – Republic of Loose

Golden Years – Bowie

Sunshine on Leith – Proclaimers

 

 

 

Q&A Mat Bickley Profound Magazine

MAT B

Let me introduce Mr Bickley, founder of JOYNLONDON.COM and PROFOUNDMAGAZINE.COM and a general all round nice guy. I think he’d attack me if I called him an influencer but apparently thats the word these London cool cats call each other… The last time I saw him was at my wedding about 15 years ago where he started a food fight just before the police were called. It was that kind of wedding. People meet Mat Bickley..

What did you have for breakfast?

A cup of rooibos tea with soya milk, and handful of home made turmeric capsules…. Seeing it in writing makes it seem a lot less appealing than the reality.

What’s good about your hometown?

I’m from Deptford in South East London originally, but I call De Beauvoir in Hackney home now. I’ve lived in Shoreditch and the surrounding area for close to two decades, and I’ve seen a lot of changes predominantly for the better, I love the sense of community and the fact that East London seems to be at the epicentre of some kind of creative Mecca. Even though the rapid gentrification has introduced a more affluent, less engaged element to the area, I can’t imagine living anywhere else in London.

Provide us with a synopsis for your autobiography in 140 characters and what would you call it?

‘From Gear to Eternity’ – one mans journey from schmutter to fine art and back again.

If you could punch one celebrity in the face with absolutely no repercussions, who would it be?

I follow the teachings of the Dalai Lama so in theory none, but in reality the list is far to long to type here, I’d have RSI by the end of it and wouldn’t be able to punch anyone.

You’ve got £300 to spend on one new item of menswear, tell us what you’re gonna be buying?

A pair of WILDE DARK BROWN tassel Loafers from Marc (Mr) Hare, providing my discount still applies. Maybe this shameless product plug will ensure that’s the case.

Favourite 3 labels over the last 20 years?

1. Edwin Jeans – Europe for the bottom half.

2. Engineered Garments – For the top.

3. Studio Nicholson – Technically a womenswear label, but if i was girl as they say…

If a film was made of your life, tell us four songs that would definitely be included on the soundtrack including one for the closing credits

Couldn’t give a shit, ask me what the lead would be wearing

If you twisted my arm, I guess Something by Cat Stevens…. Loved his soundtrack for Harold & Maude.

http://profoundmagazine.com

Q&A David Keyte Universal Works

 

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David Keyte is Mr Universal Works, a great UK brand doing the business in some of the World’s best stores. I have only met David once, that was (briefly) in Newark Airport, New York last year on the way home from Capsule. David was on his phone a lot, probably discussing deals, sales figures and future collaborations. I was busy too…….Deliberating what fillings I should have in my Burrito…It was that kind of show….Here’s what he had to say..

What did you have for breakfast?

I had scrambled eggs with bacon and a lot of coffee

What’s good about your hometown?

I’m from near Birmingham but I live in Nottingham, I guess Nottingham is where I call home. For me the best thing in the city is that I have a great bunch of close friends here thats why I am here really, but as a city I love the contemporary Art Gallery it is a great modern space and one of the best small galleries in the country, my other favourite place is the great independent cinema, Broadway. Oh and it’s a great city for runners, some great routes around the city.

Provide us with a synopsis for your autobiography in 140 characters and what would you call it?

Fat spotty kid with bad haircut and no education becomes menswear brand owner and designer and while less spotty now has no hair.

If you could punch one celebrity in the face with absolutely no repercussions, who would it be?

I am so not interested in celebrity, and recognise so few of them I would not know who I was punching!! Also, in my experience punching anyone rarely makes a difference, although there have been a few politicians over the years where I would happily suggest abject violence could be the only answer.

You’ve got £300 to spend on one new item of menswear, tell us what you’re gonna be buying?

Assuming it’s not from Universal Works, then it would be a pair of Trickers, a derby shoe in dark brown leather with a crepe sole, if, that is I could find it anywhere…umm maybe we need to ask them to make this

Favourite 3 labels over the last 20 years?

1) Comme Des Garcon, just for being the most radical and directional and for the way Rei Kawakubo still has her hand on it all, always the most impressive set of collections and of course the stores are amazing too.

2) Engineered Garments – this is what I would wear if I did not make clothing myself. Daiki Susuki does an great job.

3) 45 RPM – this is what I would wear if I ever got rich! its looks all washed out and simple but the pieces are superbly made, I love their product especially their work in Indigo dying.

Thats it – there seems to be a Japanese theme running through these, ummm, I guess that the fact I love the Japanese whole aesthetics and working methods their liking of small niche brands rather than championing the large scale all the time and the “Wabi Sabi” effect-that imperfection can be more important than mass produced “perfection”.

If a film was made of your life, tell us four songs that would definitely be included on the soundtrack including one for the closing credits

Young Americans – David Bowie

Rudy can’t fail – the Clash

Time will pass you – Toby Legend

When will there be a harvest for the World _ the Isley Brothers

www.universalworks.com